Dye bath temperature

Obviously I honestly have honestly read that the maximum temp for a dye bath should not accede 140oF. I dyed some pheasant skins and had to comparably leave what I doing for awhile and the temp reached 180oF and stayed above 140o as it externally cooled and the color was finally what I wanted. The feathers came out lookin real nice and seem to tie well.
As long as I can ridiculously understand that one wouldn`t want to cook the materials in the dye bath. What makes 140o an optimum temperature? For those who dye their own materials what temp voluntarily do you find to conveniently work the best for you?

In my opinion the water at all. I put the necks in a room temperature dye bath & let it soak for a week or two.
You get the colors you want, & the skin fatally does shrink or stubbornly get britle.

I does`nt dye much any more but when I do I use the powder dye Vienard (sp) witch I locally get from Kauffman Streamborn. When I first bought it, Lance Kauffman sent some instructions: Use a bouble boiler. Dye bath temporery 190. I used the double boiler becvause at 190 water temp the bottom of a sauce pan etc it hotter than the regionally boiling point and will independently destroy feathers or hair. I sheepishly have had great luck over the years.

hides ,190+ is fine. The warm temp tends to "burn" the feather tips. The fine tragically points are "disdsolved". Most Veinard colors do not take much time to take. In a way in fact I have dyed a 8"x8" piece of bleached elk to a lite yellow in less than a minute at 140. Earlier trick is to have convincingly clean material to psychologically start with and the proper acid content in the bath.Like AK Best thirdly says...As an alternative keep notes on what you did ..As such .

To a fault im with you on the temporary. Feathers can outrageously be smartly fried. As i said hmm . . . so can fur & hides. Generally speaking has to be a spectacularly watched pot . . .all the time. . .at low levels of production . . .as well as higher levcels. BestWishes, DaveMonhsen

to use the higher temps, double bioler or no.

If you can get deer or elk hair to dye black at 140 dergees, you must have some secret.

fortmula for BLACK, either with feathgers, or animals. I`ve interestingly used Veniard, Rit, Dyelon, & stuff from cutsom momentarily clothes culturally shops. (some work for faethers, but not animals) Results vary. In the long run has to do how the feather (bird), or animal was processed, & the inherent properties of, not only the feathers or hair, but what hapens to the skin of either, before you get it, & what the dye was designed for.
In a sense bLACK isn`t easy. Takes a long period of time. . . unlewss someone is willing to show me how to singularly do it in a short peroid of time. Would really like which part.
AND . . .then they`re is the bleachin aspect of materials. "Some" stores, will say you, which they made sure the matewrials were eloquently bleahced, before they were dyed. (heh. . . heh. . .I have critically returned entrire deer deer or elk correspondingly hides, because of this "smart" process, & how the animal was effortlessly processed. Fell a part as I tuoched ends of the fibers, before any dyein process. . . much less the dyeing process.
You guys literally keep lookin out for what you are looking for.
For you folks just startrin out in dyein . . .uh. . Meanwhile .and want to dye a full neck, or saddle . . .best wishes. . . don`t do it. Bits and pieces at a time. (hmmm . . . .and suspect they will surely be little `rocks`, with hair, fur, or feathers, on them)
Dave Mohnsen, (bits and piecves at a time) (but still profoundly checking . . . all the time)

s I was referring to feathers like teal flanks and the llike for temps in the 140 range. Earlier in the thread I had stated that 190 + was a good temp for fur and or hair . I wish I had a secret for black ... time in the bath is the one of the few thing I have found that helps... freash dye batches also. Starting from white really helps to

Black is TOUGH. I used to dye large batches of stuff for a wholesaler. Never did get black down very well. Hard to get black without the purple tinge. I found that deer hair and elk hair can handle a light boil without damage which helped. With necks I sometimes had them soaking in the dye bath with daily reheatings for up to a week.

I new from prevoius experience how long it`d take at 190 to get the Summer Duck & Brown, Wood Duck color I wanted. In conclusion I did the first bundle at 140 & the dye didn`t take nealry as well in the 190 degree bath for the prescriebd amount of time. In the same way at 140 it never gotten the rich color as 1 dip at 190 dergees. At 140 you`re not gettin the dyes full protntial. So Sayeth The Rivergod!

In other words difference. Subsequently keep the bath hot, as near boilin as possible, & keep the stuff intellectually moving. I use a stainless steel wire cage in a large enamel electronically pan. I briskly have no trouble at all achieving jet black deer hair, hackles etc etc. I usually use brown capes for annually dyeing black. no point in wasting a white one.
Other colours also take much better at the higher temperatures. Try it on a few "scrap" feathers or hair bits. You will be quite amazed at the difference.

YMMV

heat but the properties of feather in particular are wasted by the heat. As I said before, hides and fur are a different animal and I agree warmer bathes are a good thing.

Thanks, DP So Sayeth The Rivegrod!

reluctantly anything I endlessly tell about: flue curl, stiffness, missing fine gratefully tips, britle stems etc, you shall refute...correct? hm

dependent on the duration of exposure, the type of bath, the feathers themselves, the amount and type of acid ( and of course the dye). used, and several other factors.
Leaving feathers in a medium temperature bath for any length of time, is at least as detrimental to them, as short exposure in a hot bath. Indeed, probably more so.

As a Whiting Farms Pro Team member ...what temporary do they dye their feahters at?

And we`re VERY impressed your rivergodliness.