Basic Equipment

Buying the right rod and knowing which line and size suits you the best, might sound complicated, but if you use basic common sense and logic, it doesn’t have to be so hard. If you know how to match the basic tools you can cast faster and more accurately and make your fishing time more enjoyable.

We all know the dreadful ‘woof’ sound that you hear when the line on the reel has hit a bird’s nest or when your line gets tangled (backlash), e.g. This happening can have several reasons, also for an experienced angler. But you can reduce the chance of this happening by better matching the rod, lure, line and reel.

There are two types of monofilament line: There is a flexible line that stretches, and has less memory. The other one is more resistant, has less stretch and has some memory and has the tendency to hold a coil when on the reel for a while, increasing the chance of a backlash.

There is also braided line, which has a smaller diameter and limper.

In addition there are also other options like a co-polymer and fluorocarbons that are resistant, soft without memory and cannot be seen in the water.

Reels are little works of art nowadays. Most of them have braking systems, magnetic or centrifugal, to slow the spool and prevent backlash from happening. You can also control how fast the line comes off the spool by using the spool tension adjustment. A reel with two, three or more ball bearings is a good reel to start with.

So, what about rods? There are 100% graphite rods, which are in the top range. There are some crank bait rods made of fiberglass or made of a combination of fiberglass and graphite. Fiberglass is good for fishing diving crank baits, as it is very flexible and more forgiving.

You will find bait-casting rods in a few variations. The most important is to look at quality and sensitivity. Most rods have a straight handle, called a trigger stick handle. There are also still some pistol grip rods on the market. The length of your rod is something personal, they used to say that you shouldn’t use a rod that is longer that your height. But nowadays it is understood that the longer the rod, the further you can cast and you need less strength to get there.

The graphite rods are light and are balanced at the reel seat. They come in different weights, ranging from light to heavy. There are markings with suggestions for lure and line sizes. 

You need to choose a lure to match the rod, line and reel. Let’s take a 1/4 ounce spinner bait for example.

For this combination we start with a 6-1/2-foot rod. A good choice is a medium light or medium and you need a rod that has a lure range of 1/8- to 3/8-ounce. There are markings on the rod, which line to use, usually it is 8- to 14- or 10- to17-pound for medium light to medium action rods.

You will need a three or more ball bearing reel with a brake system. You should look at the line size that is suggested on them and make sure it corresponds to the markings on the rod.

Choose a 15-pound line. Spool it on and adjust the reel for the lure. When you adjust the spool tension on the side of the reel, the lure at the top of the rod should allow it to fall. You should aim for a low to medium fall, not an instant fall. Try it a couple of times until you create the slow smooth fall from the top of the rod to the bottom. Then choose a midrange braking system. On the magnetic system, dial to about 5 or 6 on the scale and on the centrifugal brake pull out half the weights. Cast your rod a couple of times and adjust the braking system to the point that when the lure hits the water the line stops feeding off the spool.

When you have the right combination, the rod should do all the hard work for you. Now you should be able to cast your rod without using too much energy.

Use your forearm and your wrist to cast, but don’t move your shoulder. Try casting with something under your arm, so that your elbow stays to the side of your body. That’s how it should be done, but it needs practice!